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Talking Turkey and Dining Out in Paris
Living
and Investing in France Real Estate Conference For more information and to register, click here FrenchPropertyconference or email info@adrianleeds.com Dear Parler Paris Reader, It's a good thing I know how to eat it, even if I don't know how to say it (in French)! You were definitely paying attention to Monday's "nouvellettre" when I made "gobbledygook" of the French word for "turkey" -- making a proverbial "turkey" out of me and an "Indian" out of the "Turques." If you have read Parler Paris for a while, then you know that a French "dinde" lands on this American's Thanksgiving table every year here in France, very proudly and very thankfully, since it's even tastier and juicier than any American-bred turkey I've eaten. Nonetheless, for all the bad language and even worse puns, I offer a sincere apology. What shall not be apologized for is the eating, regardless of the menu. Growing up in "Nouvelle Orléans" which of course, is today just quieting down after a raucous two weeks of Mardi Gras events ending last night, is a solid foundation for knowing how to have a 'party in your mouth.' According to CNN, "The sad state of the economy doesn't appear to be affecting the festive mood in New Orleans, Louisiana," and they went further to report that "New Orleans' sparkling culinary reputation is part of its unique draw." No one knows better how to eat, drink and be merry than New Orleanians. So, no wonder that immediately upon arrival in Paris, the stove top turned cold to home-cooked meals and the file of restaurant calling cards took over the kitchen table. It was as long ago as 1996 when I wrote the first online restaurant guide to Paris, devoted to good-value restaurants, since when you're living here, you take a different perspective on dining out then you might as a tourist...to spend less for each meal, to eat just as well and to find the restaurants frequented by the locals, not the tourists. After every restaurant dining experience, the receipt goes into a folder organized by month and at the end of every year, the cost of each meal gets logged into an Excel spreadsheet, then analyzed. Last year was a little more conservative than previous years, having dined out only 320 times compared to 2007's 403 times, but the average cost in dollar terms was within pennies the same -- just a bit more than $30 per meal, or 21.50€, including tax and tip. Each year, it never ceases to surprise me how well I've eaten, too, for such a small amount of money...but you can 'chalk that up' to the amazing quality of cuisine in France that can only be beaten dollar for euro by my home town, New Orleans. Often I am asked which restaurants in Paris are favorites -- a very tough question. Since "collecting stars" (dining at two and three-star Michelin-rated restaurants) is not my "raison d'être," those which get lots of publicity have not landed on the list, and in all honesty, while the meals there can be very memorable experiences for some, I find them to be overly complex, too formal and not much of a 'party.' I'd much prefer to be among the 'real folk' in a little bistrot whose decor hasn't been touched in 50 years that's still serving up a plain, but hearty plate of mama's long-standing and proven recipe. These are the restaurants the locals frequent, the ones they call their "cantines," their 'homes-away-from-homes,' that won't 'break the bank' while fully satisfying their taste buds. Chez Omar on rue de Bretagne (number 47, 3rd) is such for me, finding me there once or twice a week, for any one of the grilled meats or fish, with an endive salad on the side, topped off by a fresh mint tea and every now and then, a Moroccan pastry for dessert. It's simple, delicious, inexpensive and the atmosphere reminds me of an old-fashioned French lunchroom, just like Tujague's in New Orleans, the city's second oldest restaurant, originally opened by a French husband and wife in 1856. Another favorite, particularly for the lamb chops, for which I've never found others as a close second in flavor, tenderness and juiciness, is Le Felteu on rue Pecquay (number 15, 4th). The decor is simply the worst in all of Paris. In fact, I prefer to sit on one particular side of the restaurant than the other so that I don't have to look at the ugly assortment of plates which hang there in lieu of art. Jerry, the "patron," is a big surly man who has a caustic sense of humor, manages to make friends with his clients in spite of his demeanor. Perhaps it's part of the 'routine,' but it adds to the casual atmosphere that turns perfect strangers into comrades while cutting into the chops or the copious casserole of "Dauphinois" potatoes that comes with every dish. And since before becoming a resident, I've adored Les Fêtes Galantes, another tiny 'hole-in-the-wall' on rue de l'Ecole Polytechnique (number 17, 5th), run by Bibi, the chef, and his wife, Isabelle, who for all these years have been preparing top level creative French fare at absolutely ridiculous prices. As long as you don't mind sitting on booths whose springs have sprung through the vinyl or surrounded by walls decorated with the bras and panties of their women customers, you'll have a memorable meal and a fun time, once Bibi emerges from his tiny kitchen to meet and greet you. These three and about 200 others all over the city that are my personal recommendations from having eaten out 320 times last year (!) are listed in the guide, which is still sold electronically for all these years as an "Insider Paris Guide." Just last night the guide was updated, so it's fresh off the press. Bastille Media publishes it online along with a series of other Insider Paris Guides worth checking out, too. To get
your downloadable copy, visit the Insider Paris Guide for Good Value
Restaurants at Insider
Paris Guide for Good Value Restaurants. A
la prochaine...Adrian Leeds Editor, Parler Paris ![]() P.S. Just a few weeks away...so be sure to book your places now at the Living and Investing in France Real Estate Conference, March 21-22 at Tujague's in New Orleans. We are sure to learn lots, eat well and have lots of fun! For more information and to register, click here /frenchproperty/conference/LIF_NOLA_2009/ or email info@adrianleeds.com
Insider
Paris Guide for Good Value Restaurants You don't need to be rich to dine well in Paris - you just need to know where to go. Enjoy fabulous three-course meals with wine for just $20 to $35, including tax and tip. Explore more than 200 hand-picked great-value restaurants. Plus, get a pull-out glossary of common food and dining terms found on French menus!
For more information, visit Insider Paris Guides at InsiderParisGuides.com BE
AT HOME IN PARIS...PARLER PARIS APARTMENTS Welcome to your home in Paris. Home is how you will feel in a private apartment in Paris that has the "seal of approval" from Parler Paris Apartments and me, Adrian Leeds.
Learn French in the warmth of a stunning villa overlooking the lovely fishing village of Villefranche-sur-Mer on the Côte d'Azur in a full immersion program with like-minded adults... For more information, visit Institut de Francais or contact Fréderic Latty at info@institutdefrancais.com and be sure to tell him Adrian Leeds sent you.
Now you can own a share in an AMAZING "maison" -- more of a house in the country than an apartment in Paris, right smack dab in the middle of Paris' most elegant square -- the Place des Vosges. For more information visit frenchpropertyfractional.com or maryellen@adrianleeds.com
Over the past seven years, the Paris Poetry Workshop May 10-15, 2009 led by poet Cecilia Woloch, has become a tradition in the English-speaking Paris poetry community. This is your chance to see and experience a side of Paris not readily accessible to the average tourist... For more information visit: /frenchproperty/conference/poetry/poetry_paris_2009.html MARK YOUR CALENDAR FOR UPCOMING LIVING AND INVESTING IN FRANCE REAL ESTATE CONFERENCES... London
Sunday, April 26, 2009 The International Law Partnership The Vaults, Holborn Hall 193-197 High Holborn London WC1V 7BD For more information, email info@adrianleeds.com
The second Tuesday of every month, Parler Paris and French Property Insider readers gather at La Pierre du Marais for a drink and a "schmooze" -- it's an opportunity to meet and chat with other like-minded people and a great way to make friends! Costs nothing except whatever you drink, so don't miss the next gathering on Tuesday, March 10th, 2009 from 3 to 5 p.m. For more information, visit Parler Paris Après Midi
Practice speaking French and English. Make friends, discuss interesting topics, learn about other cultures, progress in understanding and speaking, naturally and easily. Meets three times a week -- come as often as you like! For further details, visit Parler Parlor
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