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Property Insider ©Copyright 2011 |
A Corsican Holiday •
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Even the ground host of Air France questioned an American traveling to Bastia -- not many do. Why, I don't know since it's just a hop, skip and a jump from Nice by ferry or Paris by plane. This is the third time to the French island with an Italian personality, each time trying to discover another part of the island and its beautiful beaches, not to mention its rugged mountainous inlands. Rental of an apartment for our two-week stay was easily achieved by Internet with a Corsican family who partitioned a part of their home as an apartment to sleep six. It was very inexpensive -- about one-half of an equivalent apartment in Paris to be in the hills above Bastia overlooking the sea. For months I had been dreaming about this "séjour" with friends, how we will travel by car to a new and different beach each day to discover each beach's advantages and disadvantages, dine al fresco over a sumptuous lunch, head into the mountains to find family-run bistrots in tiny villages and perhaps run into a big black hog or two on the narrow roads, as so often is the case. In the mind's eye have been the glasses of pale-colored light rose wines, sheep milk cheeses and "charcuterie" (sliced cold meats) for which Corsica is so famous. In essence, two weeks of 'heaven' in the warm sun, on the light surf and in the blue sea surrounded by dramatic scenery and colorful little enclaves. Corsica is named “the Island of Beauty,” or “the Green Island,” and has the perfect warm and gentle Mediterranean climate. Except for the cities of Ajaccio and Bastia, the region is covered with trees. What makes it so enticing is the open, authentic and wild spaces among its mountains, forests, and along its 600 miles of coastline. This is the part of the island I love most -- the beaches. After settling into the rental car -- surprisingly upgraded to a convertible(!)-- and slowly inching our way up the mountain, we arrived at the B&B just in time for lunch to be served by the owners, a local "maconnerie" of Sicilian descent and his wife. It's up in the hills overlooking the sea just below Bastia, which sits on the eastern coast at the base of "Cap Corse." It's newly remodeled and adequately equipped, but a bit 'rough around the edges' -- no matter, it's all part of the adventure and the couple have been very hospitable. The beaches are not so far away and we have already ventured out to discover a few, but will test them all before the vacation is over. There is a strip of sand and marsh on the eastern side of the "Etang de Biguglia" that has several beaches and resorts of a nice quality -- it's just next to the airport and so one need not waste a moment before landing on the sand. We've also ventured into the mountains and by chance discovered the tiny town of Cardo nestled high above the sea. Here life is very tranquil and remote. A group of fellows were drinking rosé at the local bar, and "Auguste," the proprietor of a small boutique of Corsican products was chatting with a friend while waiting on a customer or two. The tiny narrow streets are paved with slate tiles and the rooftops are of a natural slate, rather than the red clay of most typical Mediterranean villages. In the old town and port of Bastia, tourists gather at the seaside cafés as we did to have a seafood platter and watch the ferries go by. It's here in Bastia we will spend our evening and discuss the plan for the days to come.
Adrian
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